Vital Statistics

Population: 158,000 (2001 est.)
Area: 617 sq. km
Capital: Castries
Language: English
Religion: Roman Catholic
Time Zone: GMT -4 hours
Currency: EC dollar
Electricity: 220 volts
Weights & Measures: Metric
International Dialling Code: 758

The Place

St Lucia (loo-sha), lying at the southern end of the Lesser Antilles between Martinique to the north and St Vincent in the south, has earned the poetic title "Helen of the West Indies". A veritable treasure during colonial times for its strategic position, and caught in a power struggle between the British and French, this romantic, Caribbean classic is an incredibly beautiful and enchanting island. Its mixture of luxuriant tropical vegetation on a mountainous landscape, stunning beaches and a typical creole culture now attracts a different kind of invader, all keen to share in its natural splendours.

Until the 1980s, agriculture was the island's most important source of revenue. Bananas were the main export, despite a great many problems with pricing and marketing. Since then, tourism has outstripped all other income sources, and now more than 250,000 visitors holiday on St Lucia each year, accounting for more than half the island's foreign currency earnings.

Geography

It is volcanic in origin, as can be seen from its hot sulphur springs, mountainous terrain, fertile soil, and the famous peaks of the Pitons. These two majestic, cone-shaped peaks on the southwest coast, coated with lush forest, appear on the covers of so many holiday brochures and postcards all over the world that they have almost become the symbol of the West Indies. Rising straight out of the Caribbean Sea to a height of 795 metres, these twin peaks are proof that St Lucia actually is a pile of lava that reached the earth's surface millions of years ago after a series of mighty eruptions. So is the sand that shimmers in all kinds of shades: snow-white, cream, anthracite gray and even black. The highest peak, Mount Gimie (950 metres), is almost permanently draped with cloud, which provides the fertile interior, rivers and streams with enough water and moisture the whole year round. Banana plantations sweep down to the craggy east coast, dramatically buffeted by the wild Atlantic.

At least one tenth of this island is covered by a thick carpet of luxuriant tropical rainforest. It is home to a colorful assortment of wildlife such as the St Lucia parrot (Amazona versicolor) and pygmy gecko; a poisonous snake, the fer-de-lance lives in dense undergrowth. Orchids, anthurium and the heavily scented frangipani grow wild.

Climate

Temperatures remain fairly constant throughout the year. The dry season is December to May, when the temperature ranges from 18-29ºC; in the June to November wet season it can be between 24-35ºC. Breezes generally keep the humidity to a maximum of 80 percent. Rainfall ranges from an annual 129 cm around the coasts to 381 cm in the interior rainforest. Although it is on the hurricane path, St Lucia has been luckier than other Caribbean islands and has escaped with far less devastation. The hurricane season runs from June to November but storms are most likely in September, so follow local advice if you are visiting during these months.

Highlights

Diving and snorkeling

It is claimed that the reef within Anse Chastanet Marine Park, a few minutes north of Soufrière, has some of the best diving and snorkelling in the Caribbean. There are more than 25 different types of coloured corals and impressive sponges at the foot of Petit Piton across the bay. Angel and parrot fish, flying gurnards, blue-headed wrasse and sargeant majors are all to be seen swimming in these calm, protected waters. Experienced divers can explore numerous wrecks, caves and walls. Some of the more unusual features in this area are coral arches and huge sponges. Barracudas and groupers are to be found further out from the island.

Central Rain Forest Reserve

This mountainous, 7,600-hectare park in the highlands of the interior is a haven for nature-lovers. The only way to penetrate the green heart of the island is to join an organized rainforest hike through one of the main tour agencies - hiking alone is not permitted, both for safety reasons and to safeguard the forest's sensitive ecological balance.

Seashore

Grande Anse Beach on the northwest coast is where leatherback turtles come ashore to lay their eggs during March to July. Turtle-watching camps on the beach are organized by the St Lucia Naturalist Society on Saturday nights during this period. A new local attraction is whale-watching. If you are lucky, humpback and sperm whales, dolphins too, can be spotted swimming off the Atlantic coast at various times of the year from boats. The island's best white beaches stretch northwards from where the island-hopping planes take off at Vigie Airport, just outside Castries. Sleek catamarans and luxurious windjammers lie at anchor in the new 1,000-berth marina tucked away behind Rodney Bay, once a US naval base built to protect the Panama Canal. Close by on Reduit Beach, young people dressed rasta-style hawk their wares between the sunbeds.

Sulphur Springs

The crater region of Sulphur Springs just outside Soufrière is praised by the (partly self-appointed) guides from the town as "the only drive-in volcano in the world", because car parking was possible between the two bubbling springs. Now the last few metres have to be covered on foot, because, unsurprisingly, the numbers of cars got out of hand.

Diamond Falls and Mineral Baths

The curative powers of the Diamond Falls' steamy waters are harnessed at the mineral baths, which Louis XVI had built in 1784 to revive the energy of his troops. In the middle of the splendid Diamond Botanical Gardens, where orchids, flame trees and hibiscus bushes bloom, the hot water streams out of the ground into tiled basins at a temperature of around 100°C.

Maria Islands Nature Reserve

Two tiny islands off the south coast are a bird-watcher's dream and home to, among others, the sooty tern, the red-billed tropic bird and the brown noddy, which tucks its nests under the prickly pear cactus.

Gros Islet Jump-Up

There's a very special kind of party every Friday night from 10pm when the otherwise rather sleepy fishing village of Gros Islet, on the north side of the marina, comes alive for a "jump-up" lasting well into the early hours. All are welcome and the aromas of grilled chicken and fish fill the air, together with the steady thump from mobile discos in the streets.

Castries Market

This market is reputed to be one of the biggest, noisiest and liveliest in the east Caribbean, especially on Saturdays when vendors from villages further afield join the throng by setting up their stalls outside the market building. Every kind of Caribbean fruit, vegetable and spice is on sale.

Frigate Islands Nature Reserve

The east coast, which has plenty of rainfall, few inhabitants and a raw Atlantic atmosphere, is the most rewarding part of the island for nature lovers to visit. At the Frigate Islands Nature Reserve vast colonies of frigate birds have made their home. With a wingspan of nearly 2 metres, they are true acrobats to watch as they chase the seagulls and pelicans, forcing them to drop their prey. The islands are a good habitat for indigenous birds, boa constrictors and the rarely seen but poisonous fer-de-lance snake.

Gros Piton and Petit Piton

Experienced climbers can try their hand at scaling Gros Piton (798 metres) or Petit Piton (750 metres). The two cone-shaped volcanic peaks dominate the south of the island and appear on all the postcards. Either will take a full day and the difficult ascent may only be made in the company of local guides familiar with the terrain. The Forest and Land Department is a good place to start arranging your climb.